Megi Maeuntang at Uiseong Maneul Hwangto Megi, Bucheon

Lunch was megi maeuntang at Uiseong Maneul Hwangto Megi (의성마늘황토메기), out in Jakdong in Bucheon, just west of Seoul.

What is it? Maeuntang (매운탕) is a spicy stew built around fish, simmered at the table with gochugaru, vegetables and whatever aromatics the kitchen favours. Megi (메기) is catfish, so this is the freshwater version — a different tradition from the coastal seafood ones, and usually found at restaurants that specialise in river fish.

It arrives already at a rolling boil. Look closely at the broth and it is full of tiny freshwater shrimp — that is what gives this style its depth. There is plenty of spring onion and minari, and the catfish goes in whole, in large pieces.

Sharp and hot without turning heavy, and with none of the muddiness people associate with river fish. The catfish itself comes apart with chopsticks.

Once you have worked through some of the solids, the ramyeon goes in. Adding instant noodles to a stew near the end is close to obligatory here, and most places bring a portion out with the pot. The broth has thickened by then, and the noodles soak it straight up. That is the best moment.

Ate it sweating. There is a Korean logic to eating something this hot in August: iyeolchiyeol (이열치열), fighting heat with heat, and it genuinely does leave you feeling cooler afterwards.

Where

• Uiseong Maneul Hwangto Megi, Bucheon branch — Yeokgok-ro 324beon-gil, Jakdong, Bucheon-si, Gyeonggi-do
• Naver Map